In this video I’ll show you how to combine high-speed sync flash, and wide open apertures to create amazing photos in your small home studio… Hello I’m Gavin Hoey and you’re watching Adorama TV brought to you by Adorama the camera store that’s got everything for us photographers… In my previous video I looked at flash sync speed in my small home studio… well today I’m gonna do high-speed sync flash in my small home studio. Now there’s really in my mind two reasons to use high-speed sync flash… the first one is if you want to combine the ambient light with flash while photographing a fast-moving subject, and the second one is the one we’re gonna do in here, which is where you want to remove ambient light while using flash, but shooting with a really wide aperture lens. Now for that to make a bit more sense let’s get a model in. Let’s get a light set… but let’s not use it yet and let’s get shooting. So to help me out today I’ve got the amazing Roger… Roger is gonna be the model for this, and before I get into high-speed sync flash, I’m gonna take a picture at my normal flash settings. So I’m using my Olympus camera with a f/1.2 lens and the whole purpose of having a f/1.2 lens is to shoot at that really wide aperture for a shallower depth of field, so I’ve doubled in 1.2 as my aperture, 250th of a second, my flash sync speed… ISO 200 the native ISO for my Olympus camera… I’m gonna take a picture without flash just to see what I get. Okay Roger, here we go so… at those settings and without flash I can still see Roger, which means the ambient light and ambient light color is going to combine with the flash and potentially that could ruin my picture. So what I want to do is get control of the light by getting rid of the ambient light in the room. Now I could do that really easily by turning off the room lights, but that has a few problems, the first one being I wouldn’t be able to focus and you wouldn’t be able to see the video, and of course I could change my camera settings, but one of the reasons we can see Roger in this image is because I have such a wide open aperture. If I was to close that down, Roger would disappear, but of course I’d lose the
whole reason four using this particular lens, that’s where high-speed sync flash comes in to save the day. So what I’m looking at is the shutter speed, now normally I’m working at my flash sync speed, 250th of a second for me, high-speed sync flash means I can go past that limitation, but how fast should I go, well the only way to find out for sure is to take some test pictures so let’s do that. I’m going to change my shutter speed to 500th of a second, and take basically the same shot of Roger, and at that setting well I can still see Roger, he’s a little bit darker, but he’s definitely there. Let’s change it again to a 1,000th of a second, take the same shot once more, and Roger is almost gone. I can still see him a little bit so let’s try two thousandths of a second, and that setting… well there’s a few hotspots. I can live with those but basically Roger has disappeared, and that’s what I’m looking for, no flash no picture, from that point I can then add in my own lights, which will be under my control… so I’m controlling the lighting, I’m controlling the colors, it’s just a much better place to work in your small home studio. So let’s add some flash. When I put the trigger on… it actually limits my camera to a shutter speed of 250of a second… that’s the flash sync speed for my Olympus camera… your mileage may vary…. the fastest shutter speed I can go with normal flash, but I need to shoot at 2000th of a second to get to those sorts of shutter speeds… I press the sync button or high-speed sync button on the trigger, and that’s it now. I can choose 2000th of a second and shoot away, so I’m using the flashpoint Explorer 400, and the flashpoint R2 Pro trigger… it’s really important that the trigger and the flash work together as a high-speed sync system. Let’s just take a test picture, see what we get, well it does work but it’s a little bit too bright. Now normally I would reach for my flash meter, and start taking some meter readings, but one of the downsides of high-speed sync is unless you have a very specific flash meter, you can’t meter it, sadly my trusty flash meter doesn’t do the job, but trial and error is perfectly fine. So if that’s too bright, I can just turn the flash down in power, take another shot and that looks fantastic, really nice lighting, nice shallow depth-of-field, and that looks really good, high-speed sync works by effectively strobing the flash as the shutter mechanism passes across the sensor. Now in reality it’s a bit more complicated than this, but it’s remarkably easy to use. Okay so I think everything is set technically… Let’s actually take some photographs… so Roger are you ready? let’s do the shoot. Here we go… want to lift the sword up… yeah, pop it on your shoulder. Alright go for it, So is it where you get to be a little more kind of aggressive.. Okay success give me some smoke… okay well that was fantastic fun, and having Seth here doing the smoke absolute bonus for me! So one more thing you need to know about high speed sync and it is a little gotcha… make sure you do the first bit… about setting the shutter speed… that wasn’t there just to demonstrate how it works… it’s part of the process, because if you change your shutter speed with high speed sync flash, you change the output of the flash… that’s just how it works. Now if you’ve enjoyed this video and well you got a question, leave me a comment below. Click on the bell icon to get regular notifications of all the brand new videos right here on Adorama TV and of course click on that subscribe button. I’m Gavin Hoey thanks for watching.