Make the Ultimate Bluetooth Dry Ice Fog Machine – 3D Printed | Elegoo Arduino | DIY | Halloween

Hello and welcome to DIY Machines where in
todays episode I’m going to show you how to build your very own portable, battery powered
and bluetooth controlled dry ice machine. And it has colour changing
LEDs…>It’s a really cool trick for your next Halloween party.>You can also choose to print a different nozzle. This one is great for creating a low lying
fog effect. You’ll need a few things to build one of your
own. I’ve put links down below where you can find these items on Amazon. You will need an Arduino Nano. An L298N motor driver board. 8 Cell battery holder with integrated switch and eight AA batteries to go with it. A mini self-adhesive breadboard. A 12v high torque DC motor with geared reduction
box. A HM10 bluetooth module. A couple of contact switches. A stationery holder. Some M3x6 and M3 x 10 bolts. Three M3 nuts and two M3 washers. One long M6 bolt and two
M6 nuts. My bolt is about 40mm long. And some wires. I’m going to use a mixture
of breadboarding wires and some ordinary wire to solder with. Some filament for the 3D printed
parts. I am using PLA. A container for the main body. I’m using a
plastic food container which measures about 20cm wide, 20cm deep and 27cm high. Optionally, if you would like to add LEDs to your nozzle like I have mine you will need
a ring of LEDs. This project is made possible thanks to the
generosity and support of my Patreons and You will find a link to Chillistick and
my Patreon page in the description below. The first thing we need to print is the arm
which holds the dry ice container. I have printed mine in PLA with an infill percentage
of 60% as it needs to be strong to lift the ice and cope with the steam from the hot water
and the cold air from the dry ice. Once the print is complete you will need to
remove the support material. Put the stationary pot into the arms which
we just printed. Lower this inside your container and then mark on the side where we need to
drill a hole so that the arm is able to move up and down without colliding with the rest
of the container. Make another mark on the opposite side of
the container. Drill both of these marks out with an 8mm
drill bit. Offer up the motor to one side of the container
and then draw where we need the screw holes to be to mount the motor.
Drill these four marker out again, but this time, us a 3mm drill bit.
Use four of the M3 x 6 bolts to secure the motor.
Now we will add an M3 x 6 bolt and nut to the main arm. This will be used later to secure
the arm to the shaft of the motor. The nut goes on the inside of the arm. Use a small
allen key to help hold it in place whilst you fit the bolt.
Next we will fit the M6 bolt and M6 nuts to the other side of the arm.
Fit the second bolt inside the 3D printed limit arm and for the time being, screw this
loosely onto the bolt. Now let’s start with the electronics. Print
the housings bottom part and then place the motor driver into its position in the bottom
right. You some of your M3 x 6 screws to hold this
in place. Offer the housing unto the back of the container and use a pen to mark where
we need drill the holes for the bolts. Use a 3mm drill bit for these holes. Secure
this in place by using two of the M3 x 6 bolts, the M3 washers and two M3 nuts.
Now add the Arduino Nano to the breadboard. Ensuring that the side with 5V on it has three
spare holes and the other has two. Plug the Arduino Nano into your PC using a
USB cable. Launch the Arduino IDE, download a copy of
the code using the link in the description below. Ensure you have the board type Arduino
Nano selected. the processor is an ATmega328P, and check you have the right serial connection.
Now you can upload your code to the Arduino Nano. Peel off of the self-adhesive backing
and push it into place. If you would prefer to follow a wiring diagram
you will find one linked in the description below, otherwise, watch on.
Now we will extend the wires coming from the battery holder. The wires will need to come
down the side of it up to this terminal on the motor driver board.
Insert the eight AA batteries into the holder. And use some hot melt glue to secure it into
place. Wrap some insulation around your solder joints to stop them from shortening the circuit.
Connect the two wires from the battery holder to the motor driver board. the red one goes
up top and the black one in the middle. To connect the motor to the motor driver board
feed through the white and red wires. The red wire goes on the left at the top, and
then the white wires goes to the right at the top.
The unused wires on the motor aren’t required – these can be trimmed away.
Now we need to ad a short length of wire from he ground terminal on the motor driver board
the ground on the Arduino Nano. Remove this jumper from the motor driver board.
Use a wire to join ‘Enable A’ from the motor shield to Digital 11 on the Arduino. From
‘Input 1’ on the motor shield to Digital 9 on the Arduino and finally from ‘Input 2’
to Digital 8 on the Arduino. Now we need to solder some wire to our contact
switches. The wire will need to be long enough to go from herbal the way through the casing
and back to the Arduino Nano. Once you have finished soldering, feed all
four wires through the side of the case. Connect one wire from each switch to ground. The remaining
wire from one switch can go to Digital 3 and then the wire on the other switch can go to
Digital 4. Connect your Arduino to your PC via USB again
and open he Arduino IDE. Open the serial monitor and ensure that the baud rate is 9600. Now
we will install our limit switches. Undo the nut with the arm on slightly and apply some
glue to shaft of the bolt and then screw the bolt back on ensuring that the arm sets in
the same position as the 3D print inside the container.
Switch on the power coming from your AA batteries. Now with the stationary holder back in place
inside your 3D printed part we can send a capital ‘D’ through the Arduino serial monitor
lower the arm slightly. You want to continue to lower it until the stationary holder can
swivel freely without hitting the 3D printed parts.
Now apply some glue to the contact switch which is connected to Digital 4 on the Arduino.
You want to push this into places that the contact switch is engaged its current position.
You can test that this switch is working by sending a capital ‘D’ through the serial monitor
to lower the container and then sending some capital ‘U’s for ‘up’. The container should
stop trying to move once it hits the contact switch.
Now for the lower limit switch, send the capital ‘D’ for down again until the stationery container
is just touching the bottom of the container. This is the position where you will want to
glue the other switch. Remember, the contact switch wants to be already pressed when you
glue it up against the leaver. Test this switch again just like you did with the previous
one. Now you might find like me that you have some
surplus wire. you can shorten these wires and it will help to tidy up your electronics.
Take the bluetooth module and solder four 6cm lengths of wire to each of the four legs.
Connect the wire from VCC not he bluetooth module to 3.3v on the Arduino Nano. The ground
wire can go to a ground connection. The wire which is coming from Transmit on the bluetooth
module wants to go to the receiving one and then the receiving wire from the module wants
to go to the transmit connection on the Arduino Nano. Carefully bend the wires on the bluetooth
module and install it into its place. Now we have just one more wire to add. This
is from the 5V output on the motor shield to 5V on the Arduino Nano. This is how we
will power it from the battery pack. Now we can assemble our nozzles for the dry
ice machine. First I’m going to show you how to make this super simple low-level fogger
and then I will show you how to assemble this volcanic nozzle with integrated LED lighting
effects. the part to print this nozzle is ‘Nozzle 1.STL’.
I printed it on the side with supports in PLA with a layer height of 0.2mm.
Once finished, place it on top of your lid and then mark where the four corners are.
You will then need to mark another four points just inside of these. Use a ruler to join
the dots and then cut this inner square out.Put some hot-melt glue onto the top of the 3D
print and then insert this from the underside of the lid.Push it firmly inlace until it
has cooled. For the volcanic nozzle with integrated LED’s
print the file ‘Nozzle 2.STL’. Again I used PLA with a layer height of 0.2mms. First thing
we need to do is solder three wires to our Neopixels. Soldering one to power, a second
to Ground and then the third to Digital In. Now thread the three wires coming from the
LEDs down through the top of the nozzle and out through this hole. Add some hot melt glue
to the back of the LEDs and then these can also go down the top of the nozzle and be
pushed firmly into its holding spot. Add a dab of hot-melt glue to where the wires
pass through and then use some pieces of insulation tape to tidy up the wiring. You can now use
some hot-melt glue to hold this into place just like the other nozzle, but this time,
make sure that the wires come out on the top side of the lid. Now the lead for the power
goes to a 5V connection, the Ground lead goes to Ground and then the Digital In lead needs
to go to D6 on the Arduino. Route the cabling down the side of the battery
holder and then we can fit the lead using three M3 x 6 bolts.
Now to connect to your dry ice machine via bluetooth you need to download an app to your
phone. I’m using an Apple device and have downloaded an app called ‘HM10 Bluetooth Serial’.
If you haven’t already got an app just search your app store for ‘HM10 Bluetooth’ and you
should be able to find something to send serial commands other bluetooth to your Arduino.
You just need to send a single uppercase character for each of the commands.
Send a ‘U’ to move the container upwards and send a ‘D’ to move the container downwards.
Then to control the LEDs you can send ‘R’ for red, ‘B’ for blue, ‘G’ for green, ‘W’
for white and ‘O’ to turn off the LEDs. We are now at the point in the project where
we will be using some dry ice. Dry ice is extremely cold and will burn you if i touches
your bare skin. Follow all of the safety instruction provides by your supplier and you will have
plenty of fun without having to take anyone to A&E.
Fill the bottom of the container with some hot, but not boiling water. Then you can take
some of your dry ice and load up the metal stationery container. Secure your lid with
the nozzle of your choice on stand then you can enjoy your finished project.
Thanks for watching. why not check out some of the other projects available on my channel?
If you haven’t yet, don’t forget to subscribe and share this with anybody who might like
to build one of their own. Until next time, chow for now.

11 Replies to “Make the Ultimate Bluetooth Dry Ice Fog Machine – 3D Printed | Elegoo Arduino | DIY | Halloween

  1. oh my goodness that bit at the beginning is so funny! 🙂 Awesome project Lewis, really want to try this one.

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