Photography Tips – how to avoid Camera Shake

That’s splendid Nat, that’s just right let your shoulders relax there we go, cool. That’s a lovely picture of Natasha, she’s standing in great light there’s a lovely background and everything else but it’s completely spoiled because it’s
not sharp its fuzzy the most people think fuzzy pictures
because the shot is out of focus nine times out of ten if you have a
fuzzy shot is actually due to something called camera shake the longer the lens you’re using the worse the affect can be. let me show you what I mean. I have here an extremely expensive no expense spared camera shake
demonstrating tool. If I hold this stick out like that, put my finger just here and move the stick up and down only about an inch where my finger is, look at the leaves at the end their bobbing up and down probably two
or three times that amount that’s what happens as you look down
your lens the longer your lenses the more it magnifies this wobbling up and down thing, the distance between me and Tash is probably going I don’t know, four times as much if you zoomed out right across to the other side of the park it’ll be even more stuff will be leaping
around all over the place me show you what that looks like through a camera, Jayne’s gonna pop her camera of the tripod, i’m just gonna wander over here and join Tash whilst she does that Now, here we go. If I stand here withy Tash with the lens short at a short focal length this little discernible movement in the
picture is there but if Jenny zooms out in a makes the lens longer to get a nice head and shoulders
portrayed tight shot lovely hit you notice there a little bit sad
movement which 100 jiggling around in the frame
just a tiny bit and those tiny movement what will cost
camera shake because they’ll blood and you’ll get a fuzzy picture now the obvious thing to do is what Jay need us most of the time
anyway and that issues a good sturdy tripod what’s a good study
cuz wobbly tripod useless he won’t freeze camera shake if you have a wobbly
cheap tripod spend the money in the pub instead it
will be much better value Tash here we go excellent Top Model here we go nice if I take the same shot
on the tripod now it’s nice in shock because there’s
no movement at the camera and obviously there’s little or no
movement at lapd but what if you haven’t got a tripod with you there is another white what you have to do issues a fast enough
shutter speed to freeze that motion just like you’re
photographing someone running a bicycle you could use
a far shutter speed to freeze the movement now since I put the truck pulled down
lights changed a bit his hey do it as I frame-up the shot of
cash but day looking through the viewfinder I
can read of what the shutter speed H and in this case it’s now nineteen after
the second but my focal length: is a 150 millimetres to I need to use a shutter speed faster than 150 if the
second in order to freeze that motion this
little roll if you’re focal length is two hundred
male you need a $200 for the second if it’s a hundred million eight hundred for
the second or foster it doesn’t matter if you’re a
hundred million Asian you gotta thousand for the second because that’s
way for a faster it will absolutely freezing you to movement you have when
you juggle the camera around but if you’re
200 mail and even got a twenty-fifth have a
second or something like that I pretty much guarantee you if you I’m gonna try call you gonna get
a blurry fuzzy picture and having nothing to do with focus
it’ll be camera shake okay let’s go through what we have to do
about this taken at reich looking through the camera and you have
to do it through the camera to make sure that it is actually taken like reading
of your subject 90 for the second 150 milan’s I need more than 150 a I’m already on the widest aperture the I
can use so I can’t get any more light into the
camera that way but I can increase the eyesight because as I
increase the I so setting I’m increasing the sensitivity of the
chip in the back of the camera if the chip is sensitive it doesn’t need
anything like so much light I’m going up to 400 ISO from 200 here we go us what to hit that side a
bit too so that it’s a different picture now course got somebody walking right
behind cash are just gonna polls for a moment to let go on we go excellent right my shutter speed is now
a hundred and eightieth a second it gone from sixtieth 280 a let’s just recap on that for a moment I
started off for the ninety for the second shutter speed which is too slow to freeze the mobile
the movement that the camera shake bike doubling the I so sensitivity from
200 to 400 I sighed that had the effect a doubling the
shutter speed from ninety 200 eightieth a second because my lens was at a 150 millimetres and a hundred and eighty through the
second is a foster shutter speed the number 150 which is the focal length
of the lens that’s fast enough to freeze any motion
I may have when I took that shot think about it
just won’t happen again in your car to get your head around it now another thing you can do to help
minimize camera shake is the way you hold your camera if you
hold your camera like this in two hands and looking like
that you’ll probably find is really a little wobbly I know I’m exaggerating
now but it’s nothing nothing like as easy as
just making a little rest with a hand and kinda a tripod
against your body and kinda but that you can still was a
hermit and turn around and all that kinda stuff but it just hold the camera an awful lot
stadia and finally of fun breathing makes an enormous difference I know it sounds silly but you could
Olympic rifle shooting champions they they really concentrate on their
breathing and this is what you doing its white school shooting a picture iPhone if I shoot all squeeze the
shutter button on the exhale it works in of a lot
better so I just kind of like brief rest it and
then and click here I can usually get and
even steady a picture hope that helps you should have let me
show pics from now on in

100 Replies to “Photography Tips – how to avoid Camera Shake

  1. when refering to the focal length, say 100mm, do you also need to take account of the crop factor? So would I need 1/100 or 1/160 second?

  2. Sir,, needless to say very informative.
    i hv a stupid request, can u plz make a video for novice non-pro shooters coz i was missing that shutter timing thing in relation to ISO.
    like who faced camera first time and want to capture good shots just after 7 days of training by Mike Brown's youtube videos.

    can you create a separate playlist containing 10-50 training videos,for novice users who never used a camera even point nd shoot one…… we just need some basics to understand that high level rocket science you teach.


  3. some great tips there, thanks, however on my camera when i see the pictures and look at the properties, it gives me 2 focal length information, one says "focal length" and the other says "35mm focal length" which one shall i use for reference against the shutter speed.

  4. I don't know what it is about your videos Mike, but they are truly the best out there. You have a way that makes beginning photographers such as myself truly understand the fundamentals. Keep up the amazing work you're doing and a very big thank you πŸ™‚

  5. Hi Sir Browne, very good video. I remember watching your video on flash with the boy playing computer games a long while back. a quick question will higher the aperture increase camera shake compare to f.1.4.? cheers

  6. Cheers Mike for this. Good tips with this and all your vids. I'm an expert at camera shake so this will certainly help me. Now I'm learning manual mode and the triad of aperture, shutter speed and ISO.

  7. Very comprehensive explanation…thank you! I'm having a little bit of trouble with soft images using my new Panasonic 100-300mm f/4-5.6 lens and wondering about something. My Panasonic G7 micro 4/3 camera has a 2x crop factor, so if I'm using 250mm focal length, would I need at least a 1/500 shutter speed, or would I not double it? Thanks!!

  8. I don't understand my lens is a 55-200 and I have alot of camera shake using that lens please help

  9. Its funny using subtitles on these videos. its doesn't recognize his accent and fills it in with random words.

  10. I am really enjoying watching your instructional vids they are actually sinking in and I am able to absorb what you are teaching. I love it. 10/10 will continue to watch your videos

  11. An excellent teacher. A great trainer. Your explanation is very clear. Your demonstration illustrates and helps the viewers understand your explanation further and better. You make learning about photography easy and fun. Thank you, Mike. Thanks to Natasha and Janie for making this series as well. (Hope I spelled them correctly.)

  12. Being an old photographer watching Mike Browne, I can truly say he is the best here on Utube, giving advise. I am often here to see if there is anything new, probably when I'm bored, and there are many giving reviews and I do not know what, placing themselves by a microphone and blabbing away. Learn from Mike, he is really teaching you the basics in a most enlightening way, by showing you and being honest. No brand names or anything like that. Just plain solid experience shared. Lovely and refreshing! I salute him for that. He must be a great help to many out there! Lovely assistant too!

  13. Brilliant video as always Mike. Just wondering, does it make a difference with an fx vs crop sensor or should a 200mm lens have at least 1/200th?

  14. Hi again Mike, does the shutter speed/focal length relationship get affected by whether you're using a full frame or a crop sensor? Thanks again for these great videos!

  15. Mike-you are more inspiring than you might realize..sometimes I will walk around the house and using a British accent, saying things like" I think that's a lovely shot" , etc. and my wife will comment, " I guess you 've been listening to your buddy Mike Browne again " πŸ™‚

  16. Why would you increase the iso if you could increase the shutter speed. I was looking at some info and they said increase shutter speed. But I was looking at sport photograph. Help…

  17. If I have a crop sensor camera, does that mean I should multiply focal length by 1.6x – which results in a necessary change in the shutter speed to freeze movement?

  18. For handheld shots of portraits especially, it's better to use a prime lens than a zoom. Anything slower than 1/60 shutter speed would be a challenge without a tripod.

  19. What about shooting with a lens that has a four stop image stabilizer built in like the Canon 18-135mm lens. Should u not be able to take a steady shot at least 3 stops under focal length? Just asking for a friend. Lol

  20. Dude, that is a way too simpler looking tip and very very handy, and that calculations part was so simple to remember (to which I used to ignore but not nowπŸ˜€)
    As a beginner I find it very useful.
    Thanks a lotπŸ‘ŒπŸ‘

  21. Buy a Panasonic Lumix GX80 (85) and a fast lens. Even when I went to a pub the night before my pictures are ok.

  22. dig it boss! shared this vid around as much as humanly possible.
    My lovely Uncle Al aka Exposure Master:), I am sure I have mentioned before, told me when I was starting out, to breath out and "crack it off right after you finish breathing out kid". Not going to argue with a pro from Canada:) You and he are dead correct. It really changed my images during first few months learning how to use a DSLR. Whenever I can use my tripod, phffff. I will use it! Love tripods!
    Brilliant video Mike

  23. Mike, if you are on a crop sensor camera (let’s say Nikon 1.5x crop) should the shutter speed be greater than the focal length of the lens, or the focal length of a 35mm equivalent? For example, if using an 18-140mm DX lens at 140mm, should the shutter be greater than 1/140 sec, or greater than 1/210 sec?

  24. Many thnx, Mike for this straightforward and very informative tutorial. It's helping me a lot! πŸ™‚

  25. Thank you so much for your videos Mike! You are a great teacher and you make learning fun and simple! You explain slowly and clearly and that helps me tremendously. Thank you! God bless


  27. Hi Mike, great tutorials. You are the BobRoss of Photography for me!! Keep going on…I will watching your videos.

  28. Those dance moves tho πŸ˜‚πŸ˜‚
    Great info Mike
    What about stabilisation for video work ?? Any tips there ? Im in the process of wanting to buy my first camera and there’s so much info and so many reviews

  29. Thank you for your videos! Why sign up for photography classes when I’ve got your educational videos right here at my fingertips! You’re great at explaining things so that even a beginner, such as myself, can understand. You are greatly appreciated kind sir!

  30. When you say you should use a shutter speed the same as your focal length say 1/200 for 200mm if I was as 300mm on a asp-c sensor will my shutter speed match 300mm or do I have to apply the crop factor to my shutter speed?

  31. Yup, That helped a "lot", thank you πŸ™‚ May I ask the following > what equip' do you use to get decent sound please ? so many vids are unwatchable because of poor sound while yours is good; but no mike visable ?, next > (little lessons for me – studio=concrete-floor) I have indulged myself with a very-heavy camera table but (very rude awakening) I find that if I use the "camera-base-bracket" instead of the "On-lens-base-bracket", the image at 35' with a 200mm lens will wobble; and go on wobbling a good 4-5mm up+down ? so the same rule may apply to even the best tripod if the rigs centre of gravity isn't central = obvious; but it caught me out ??. next > growing up with film (fixed-ISO) I find I'm very slow to accept that we now have 3 interrelated exposure variables; shutter-aperature+ISO it can make a big difference, ouch & ha' ha' πŸ˜‰ Again big thanks πŸ™‚ John – Perth, WA.

  32. (Not directly related; but >) I asked Mike which mike system he uses to get decent sound where so many vids have lousy sound; and he says > "I use sennheiser radio mics" Going all around the traps and buying rubbish before you buy a decent mike system can be both frustrating and expensive – cheers all πŸ™‚

  33. Practical tips for a real annoying problem. Increase shutter speed, make a support for the camera with the arm and chest. I like the Nikon ability to depress the shutter half-way, freezing the frame, then completing the shoot by pressing the shutter all the way down…

  34. You are giving incorrect information. The reciprocity rule you are quoting was for film photography. With digital sensors the likes of the 36 megapixel Nikon D810 the reciprocity rule is about 3 to 1. Not 1 to 1. Not unless you have the steadiness of a statue.

  35. For me a painful lesson. (Studio) I had a 300 mm lens looking at half inch high lettering on a colour card at a distance of about 30 feet across the studio , the camera was secured on $6000 worth and about 150 pounds weight of camera table, but supported by the "hole in the camera base" not the "bracket on the lens". And the lettering wobbled up and down from the top to the bottom of the screen on the back of the camera, and just kept on wobbling and wobbling and wobbling. Eventually having learned my lesson I moved the support to the bracket on the lens. gave myself a decent pistol whipping, and moved on. "Idiot" πŸ™ a blinding flash of the obvious, but so many lessons are: aren't they. I hope you do better πŸ™

  36. Such wonderful advice. I’m working my way through your Ultimate Beginners Course, and I’m loving each step so far. In this video, you mentioned that the shutter speed needs to be the fraction equivalent to the facial length. So 50mm would need a shutter speed of 1/00 or faster. In the beginner’s course, the handout mentioned that the shutter speed needs to be a fraction that is doubled the focal length. For example, 18mm will need a shutter speed 1/40 of a second or faster. What have you found to be the better/proper principle? Thanks.

  37. wow…I was doing everything backwards thinking a higher aperture ie f16 would sharpen pics. Of course this would slow shutter speed making things worse….thanks

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